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Review: Farlam Hall Hotel & HRISHI’s Table Experience

Travel
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23 May 2025
|
5 min read

If hospitality is about creating spaces where people feel deeply valued, well fed, and truly at peace, then Farlam Hall—and HRISHI’s Table in particular—has perfected the art.

There’s a certain kind of tranquillity that only exists in the English countryside. Here, where green meadows spill across undulating hillsides and brooks run quietly beneath towering trees, time seems to have no bearing. It’s within this pastoral paradise that you’ll find Farlam Hall, a luxurious 4 AA Red Star and 1 Michelin Key Relais & Châteaux hotel tucked away in Cumbria’s leafy folds, just far enough from the well-trodden Lake District paths to feel like a real hidden gem.

However, Farlam Hall isn’t just a country house hotel with heritage charm, nor is it just a Michelin-anointed culinary destination—it’s something even more special. Upon arrival, you’ll be immediately struck by how much love has been poured into this place, and you can feel it in every interaction, around every corner. An unbridled sense of care runs through everything, from the design to the service, and even a personal pick-up from the nearby Carlisle station by Chef Patron Hrishikesh Desai. The team here operates with quiet attentiveness, nothing too rehearsed or overbearing. They’re just genuinely glad you’re here, and it shows. It came as no surprise to learn that 40% of guests return. I was already planning my next visit before the first night was over.

Set on six acres of lush grounds complete with manicured lawns, ornamental water features, a flourishing kitchen garden, and its very own beehives, Farlam Hall’s story stretches back to the 15th century, but it’s the most recent chapters that are perhaps the most compelling. In 2019, after four decades under the same family, the hall was bought and lovingly revived by a pair of American anglophiles, Joe Walter and Kathy Mares, who first arrived as guests and ended up staying for good. Rather than turn the manor into a slick, modern machine, they doubled down on its bucolic character, renovating rooms, refreshing interiors, and inviting culinary heavyweight Hrishikesh Desai to take the reins. If his name rings a bell, it should: Roux Scholar, former National Chef of the Year, and the creative force behind Gilpin Hotel’s Michelin-starred HRiSHi.

With Desai came transformation—not just of the menu but of the entire food philosophy. Within a year, The Cedar Tree Restaurant earned its first Michelin star—a remarkable feat in a region already rich with fine dining. But it’s the recent unveiling of HRISHI’s Table—an exclusive 10-14-course dining experience for up to 10 guests—that makes a visit to Farlam Hall truly unforgettable.

The name “chef’s table” gets thrown around far too often these days, but HRISHI’s Table restores its meaning—and then some. Housed in a beautifully converted stone Tack Room, just across the lawn from Farlam Hall’s main house, the setting feels simultaneously luxurious and intimate. There are no stiff white-linen tablecloths or overly formal seating arrangements. Instead, you’re welcomed into what feels like a convivial dinner party—if said party were hosted by a Michelin-starred chef with a penchant for storytelling and an incredible grasp of French technique and Indian flavour alchemy.

The evening began with a glass of Champagne—Hrishi’s table has a partnership with Taittinger—complemented by a procession of six unique canapés. The first, a moreish garbanzo “chaat” seasoned with black salt came with a story of elephants in India seeking out salt rocks, followed by an “olive” that was, in fact, a paper-thin white-chocolate shell filled with a cardamom-spiced Nocellara olive crème and Portuguese olive oil. One by one, each amuse-bouche unfolded like chapters in a memoir: a spherified beetroot “rasam” combined molecular technique with the comfort of South Indian cuisine, while a fermented rice flour “appam” with caviar and coconut chutney took inspiration from the restaurant where Hrishi’s parents fell in love. A personal favourite was the crisp croustade filled with Mexican avocado and mackerel tartare—a globe-trotting nibble that captured the spirit of Hrishi’s cooking: culturally layered but always coherent.

And while the snacks dazzled with their fun interpretations of Indian street food classics, the main tasting menu that followed showcased depth and fine-dining finesse. A standout was the bread course: an array of warm, house-baked breads arrived alongside a trio of whipped butters shaped as their flavours: a rich tomato one and another slightly spicy version fashioned as a chilli. Delicate white asparagus, curried cauliflower and expertly-cooked cod followed, all crowned by an impressive corn-fed chicken breast stuffed with Chettinad flavours and kissed by flames before being plated with precision. Desserts, too, walked that fine line between nostalgic and new: preserved garden strawberries with yoghurt foam evoked summer at its peak. The chefs—Desai and his right-hand man, Benhur Gaikwad—took turns presenting each creation personally, sharing the stories behind them, and engaging with the guests. The night concluded as it began: sitting comfortably on plush sofas while sampling something delicious. This time, it was a selection of petit fours paired with the best cup of chai I’ve had in Britain.

Of course, dining is only one thread in Farlam Hall’s billowing tapestry. Home to twelve guest rooms in the main house, six Stable Suites on the garden path, and a sprawling Coach House with three bedrooms, a home-style kitchen, spacious living area and a twelve-seat dining table. Elegantly presented, the accommodations showcase the abundance of care and attention to detail that Joe and Kathy poured into the hotel’s redesign. Gone are the garish colours and heavy drapery of the manor’s former life, replaced by dark woods, soft linens, classy antiques and a soothing palette of pastel hues. Everyday luxuries have been thoughtfully integrated: the stable suites feature well-kitted kitchens, there are Dyson Supersonic™ hair dryers in the bedrooms, and each bathroom features a freestanding tub and built-in television.  

Despite its modern touches, Farlam Hall retains its old-world charm with grace, particularly in its hospitality. The property may not have a spa with 12 treatment rooms, a valet parking system or room service ordered via iPad. What it does offer is far more meaningful: it’s a hotel that feels as good as it looks, a restaurant that feeds your imagination as much as your appetite, and a team that gives generously without being prompted. And Hrishi? He is the beating heart of it all. There is real joy in watching someone do what they love, and do it brilliantly.

With HRISHI’s Table, Farlam Hall hasn’t just added a feather to its cap—it’s raised the bar for what country house dining in Britain can be. Not overly precious, inaccessible or grand for the sake of it. Just pure, passionate, personality-driven cooking in a setting that allows it to shine. If you go—and you should—go hungry, go curious, and most of all, go ready to be pleasantly surprised.

To find out more about Farlam Hall and book, contact the hotel using the below details:

Farlam Hall Hotel & Restaurant

Hallbankgate
Brampton CA8 2NG
United Kingdom

Web: farlamhall.com
Tel: 016977 46234

Email: farlam@farlamhall.co.uk

Instagram: @farlamhall
Facebook: @FarlamHall

 

 

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