Nestled in the rolling green heart of the Cumbrian countryside, Farlam Hall is a hidden gem where timeless English charm meets contemporary luxury. This bucolic Relais & Châteaux beauty offers guests an escape steeped in history, comfort and the perfect amount of indulgence—set against a backdrop of nearby national parks, moorland trails and the legendary Hadrian’s Wall. Following a sensitive restoration and the recent addition of wellness offerings, the 18-bedroom estate has firmly established itself as a haven for both relaxation and gastronomic excellence.
At the centre of its culinary story is Chef Patron Hrishikesh Desai (Hrishi), whose Michelin-starred approach to fine dining has transformed Farlam Hall into one of the UK’s most exciting rural food destinations. The Cedar Tree Restaurant, awarded with a Michelin star and 3 AA rosettes, celebrates the best of local and estate-grown ingredients through beautifully balanced menus, while HRISHI’s Table, an exclusive Chef’s Table experience introduced in 2024, offers guests an immersive journey through Indian-influenced flavours, French technique and personal storytelling. With an unwavering commitment to provenance, seasonality and hospitality, Desai brings both heart and heed to everything he creates—on the plate and beyond it.
In conversation with FOUR, Hrishi shares his culinary philosophy, the inspirations behind HRISHI’s Table, and how Farlam Hall has become a canvas for his most personal and ambitious work to date.
Can you tell us a bit about your background and who/what led you to become a chef?
My passion for hospitality began when I was just four years old. I went to a lavish wedding at a five-star hotel in India, and the grandeur, the attention to detail, and, of course, the food left a lasting impression on me. That experience ignited my interest in fine dining.
I grew up in Maharashtra, India, where my earliest inspiration came from my mother. I can still vividly remember watching her cook with so much care and love, especially during family gatherings. As a child, I was fascinated by how food brought people together.
However, my love for cooking truly took off when I studied at the Institut Paul Bocuse. One moment in particular stands out: Alain Le Cossec, a Meilleur Ouvrier de France, caramelising a crème brûlée with a blowtorch. It was a simple yet magical moment that sparked my deep passion for the craft.
What experience have you gained so far in your career, and how did this lead you to Farlam Hall? How has your approach to fine dining evolved over the years?
My career journey has been varied and rich. After studying at the Institut Paul Bocuse, I was honoured to win the Roux Scholarship in 2009 and the Craft Guild of Chefs’ National Chef of the Year in 2010. These experiences gave me a solid foundation in French techniques. Over time, I began blending my Indian heritage into my cooking, adding Indian flavours to create something unique.
In 2015, I moved to the Gilpin Hotel after winning BBC 2’s Alex Polizzi: Chefs on Trial, which aimed to find a new Head Chef. That opportunity gave me invaluable experience and helped shape my role as Chef Patron at Farlam Hall, where I can showcase not only my culinary skills but also my skills as a hotelier.
Over the years, my approach to fine dining has evolved to focus on a balance of creativity and precision. I’ve placed more emphasis on seasonality and sourcing exceptional local ingredients. At Farlam Hall, this approach has truly come to life, especially with ingredients from our own property. For example, our Raspberry & Cardamom gin is made with berries from our kitchen garden, and we have honey from our on-site bees. Nothing beats the vibrancy and natural flavour of ingredients harvested at their peak and delivered straight to the plate. We work closely with a number of local suppliers whose commitment to quality ensures we have access to the finest produce.
Why do you think you are so passionate about the culinary arts?
Food has always been more than just sustenance for me—it’s about creating connections and bringing people together. Cooking is an art form that allows me to tell stories, express myself, and share my heritage with others. It’s incredibly fulfilling to watch people enjoy a meal I’ve crafted, knowing it brings joy and satisfaction.
Tell us more about the inspiration behind creating HRISHI’s Table and what makes it different from other chef’s table experiences.
When I launched HRISHI’s Table in 2024, I wanted to create something deeply personal and sensory. Along with Head Chef Benhur and our talented team, we aim to take guests on a culinary journey, sharing the inspiration behind each dish. Our seasonal Tasting Menu, which includes a Champagne reception, paired wines, and insights from the chefs, is designed to offer a more intimate and unique experience. We also use produce from our own garden and local suppliers, which adds another layer of uniqueness to the dining experience. Overall, I’d say the standout feature of HRISHI’s Table is how we directly engage with guests—it’s incredibly rewarding to engage with them face-to-face.
How does HRISHI’s Table embody your culinary philosophy, particularly in blending Indian heritage with French technique?
HRISHI’s Table is the perfect embodiment of my culinary philosophy—a place where flavour meets precision. The dishes draw from my Indian roots, reflecting the flavours I grew up with, while the techniques are inspired by my training in Lyon. By sourcing exceptional local produce from Cumbria, we can showcase regional ingredients while infusing them with the complexity of Asian-inspired flavours.
Presentation is [also] important, but it never overshadows the taste. Our menu itself is presented in a beautiful, hand-sealed wax design, reflecting the craftsmanship and attention to detail we put into every aspect of the dining experience. It’s not just a list of dishes—it’s a work of art in its own right.
The storytelling aspect seems to play a significant role at HRISHI’s Table. How do you and your team enhance the dining experience beyond just the food?
Storytelling is at the heart of HRISHI’s Table. Our guests often want to know where the ingredients come from, how they’re prepared, and the story behind each dish. The menu itself is so special, adding another dimension to the experience. Additionally, the team shares personal stories about the inspiration behind the dishes, which allows guests to connect with the food on a much deeper level. Every dish has been crafted with care and passion, and that’s something we’re eager to share.
Can you share some of your personal favourite dishes from the current seasonal menu and the inspiration behind them?
2 dishes:
The poussin stuffed with mushroom Galouti kebab, white asparagus and pressed duck leg meat sauce. The inspiration came from the famous Lucknowi kebab—Galouti kebab, which means melt in the mouth kebab. Stuffing the poussin made sense so that we could stay true to French gastronomy. But I love this dish as all the team rallied behind in the creation, which was an idea floated by my Head Chef.
The scallop tartare—a perfect small-bite dish for the start of the tasting menu, purely because it is fresh. It is an evolution of a classic dish that was created in 2015.
How does the Champagne Taittinger partnership complement the overall dining experience?
Taittinger is the new official supporter of HRISHI’s Table. The experience begins with a Champagne reception, courtesy of Taittinger. Guests enjoy a glass of Taittinger Prelude Grands Crus, one of the finest Champagnes from the house, followed by an array of decadent snacks, the tasting menu, petit fours, and optional wine pairings. Taittinger’s partnership with HRISHI’s Table doesn’t just support the dining experience; it enriches it. The Champagne’s exceptional quality is mirrored in the attention to detail and exceptional flavours found throughout the tasting menu, elevating both the culinary and sensory pleasures of the guests.
Presentation plays a crucial role in fine dining. How do you select the glassware and serving vessels to enhance each dish?
At Farlam Hall, we select glassware and dishware that elevate the food they accompany. Each course is served in vessels that complement the dish, enhancing both the aesthetic and flavour. We also take care to alternate the glassware for each wine pairing, which is a rare detail even in fine dining. It’s all about creating a harmonious dining experience that engages all the senses.
You’ve earned Michelin recognition for your work. What does this award mean to you?
Receiving a Michelin star is a huge honour, not just for me but for the entire team at Farlam Hall. It’s a recognition of everyone’s hard work, dedication, and passion in creating a seamless guest experience. For Cumbria, it’s a fantastic boost, as the region is increasingly becoming a destination for food lovers. This recognition puts a spotlight on the area, attracting guests from far and wide to experience the unique culinary offerings at the hotel. A Michelin star isn’t just about the food—it’s about the whole experience, from service to atmosphere, and everything that goes on behind the scenes to make it all come together.
Are there any upcoming seasonal surprises or special collaborations that guests should look forward to?
Of course—the Taittinger Wine & Food night is going to be one of the highlights. We are also working on a cheeky Oktoberfest which I think is going to be very popular.
What do you hope diners take away from their time at HRISHI’s Table? What message do you aim to convey with your food?
I hope guests leave HRISHI’s Table with a deeper understanding of the journey food can take them on. Every meal at Farlam Hall tells a story, from its creation to its presentation, and the chef’s table experience is the perfect way to share that story. Often, chefs work behind the scenes, focusing on the kitchen, but HRISHI’s Table gives us the opportunity to step forward and connect with our guests. It’s also a reflection of my love for entertaining and hospitality, making it an incredibly rewarding experience to share with others.
To find out more about Farlam Hall and book, contact the hotel using the below details:
Farlam Hall Hotel & REstaurant
Hallbankgate
Brampton CA8 2NG
United Kingdom
Web: farlamhall.com
Tel: 016977 46234
Email: farlam@farlamhall.co.uk
Instagram: @farlamhall
Facebook: @FarlamHall