You’d be forgiven for walking past Behind without noticing it—we had to look twice to find it. Hidden in plain sight just off London Fields, the restaurant sits at the base of a typical nondescript East London building. There’s no grand façade, just a small sign and modest entrance on Sidworth Street. Step inside, and the surprises continue.
With a name that nods to the inner workings of a kitchen, Behind lives up to its title by pulling back the curtain on the cooking process. It skips the usual table-and-white-linen setup: instead, guests sit shoulder-to-shoulder around a curved wooden counter, dimly lit and framed by blue velvet stools, cool cement walls, exposed piping and splashes of contemporary art. It’s a stripped-back space by design: no divide between diner and kitchen, no separation between cooking and eating, and absolutely nowhere to hide. It’s built for full immersion—guests sit face-to-face with the people preparing their food, with every flick of the pan and every finishing touch unfolding in full view. It’s pure magic.
Chef Patron Andy Beynon, who cut his teeth under the likes of Phil Howard, Claude Bosi, and Jason Atherton, leads a young, affable team who do double duty as both cooks and servers. There are no traditional waiters here—every dish is introduced by the chefs who made it. Likewise, Andy is actively on the frontline with his patrons. Rather than running the show from afar, he’s present, personable, and generous with anecdotes that lend real depth to the experience. The approach is unusual, but it works brilliantly. There’s no ego, just a team that clearly enjoys what they do and does it well.
The cuisine, presented in a 10-course blind tasting, is focused entirely on seafood that’s sourced almost exclusively from British day boats. There’s no printed menu handed out beforehand. Instead, each course arrives unannounced, introduced with just enough detail to pique your curiosity. Notably, everything is naturally seasoned with ingredients from the ocean—think seawater, kelp, roe—so there’s no use of excess salt, and many of the dishes use shared produce to minimise wastage.
To start: a trio of snacks, including crisp lavosh bread dressed with whole spices and gently cured tuna with fermented yuzu, presented like a pretty little rose. It was refreshing, bright, and distinctly memorable—especially when chased with a silky, umami-rich chawanmushi. Next came grey mullet, a fish not often celebrated, but given its due in this kitchen. Undervalued, Andy tells us, because it sits “between land and sea”, but he makes the most of its earthiness by pairing it with acidic verjus and the fruity pep of first-press olive oil. A delicate hit of jalapeño gives it lift. A prawn course followed: visually striking in its minimalist plating, the prawn’s delicate, translucent flesh is served in its ruby-red shell and topped with a punchy sauce. On the side, a warm, moreish broth offered a hug in a mug—so deeply comforting, it’s what you’d want by the bucketful to sip on a cold, grey day.
The kitchen isn’t afraid to take risks, either. A course of chalk stream trout wrapped in nori proves texturally divisive: beautifully seasoned, but for some, a little too soft. In contrast, a smoked kipper sauce served with a later fish dish delivers fireworks. Rich with salt, umami and memory, it had the kind of emotional resonance that great food sometimes manages to tap into. This was a favourite of ours, and many others on the night, judging by the expressions and overheard whisperings among fellow diners. The menu continued to impress: scallops with cauliflower and hazelnut purée—unctuous, creamy and smooth—and monkfish with a concentrated chicken sauce singing with green peppercorn, orange and mint.
Between courses, there’s free-flowing conversation between patrons and staff. Openness, honesty and authenticity define the interactions. Head Sommelier Audrey Boum Enock, for instance, strikes the perfect balance between technical and genial, talking appellations one moment, and laughing about drinking wine in front of the TV the next. It’s clear that the hospitality at Behind is just as thoughtful as the cooking. Attentive, fluid, and very human, nothing is done for show, yet everything has meaning. You feel it in the way the chefs present your dish without a script, you taste it in the carefully sourced ingredients, and you see it in how the team interacts with each other.
As we approach the tail end of the menu, desserts kick off with a palate cleanser in the form of a rhubarb sorbet—sharp and floral—with a polenta cake hidden beneath. Then, a lush dark chocolate mousse paired with a crisp sesame tuile delivers a smart play on contrast: bitter, sweet, crunchy, and creamy. A soft, smoky marshmallow that evokes campfire evenings and a final burst of freshness in the form of tropical fruit whip concludes the evening on a high note.
At just over £100 for the full dinner tasting menu, it’s hard not to feel impressed by the value. Generous wine pairings and unexpected extras—like the now-signature brioche with anchovy and parmesan, originally designed to take home but proving so popular that it made its way onto the menu—underscore the sense of generosity that permeates the entire experience.
It would be easy to call Behind a hidden gem, but the truth is, people are starting to notice. Originally opened in late 2020, just days before the second national lockdown, Behind was remarkably awarded its Michelin star ten days later, and it’s held onto that star ever since. The restaurant has also picked up other accolades—from three AA Rosettes to a spot on Harden’s Top 25 list. And yet, it still feels incredibly intimate and personal, like you’re at a relaxed dinner party, albeit being treated to some of the finest food in the country by a brigade of highly talented chefs.
As the evening draws to a close, Andy circles back for a final goodbye. “Hope you had fun,” he says with a smile, as though we’ve just dropped by a friend’s kitchen for a casual catch-up. That’s the magic of Behind. It’s not just what’s on the plate—it’s the people behind it, and the warmth with which it’s all delivered.
To find out more about Behind and make a booking, visit the links below:
BEHIND Restaurant
20 Sidworth Street
London E8 3SD
Web: behindrestaurant.co.uk
Email: info@behindrestaurant.co.uk
Instagram: @behindrestaurant
Images © John Carey