“Nothing is lost, nothing is created, everything is transformed,” wrote French chemist Antoine Lavoisier, describing the Law of Conservation of Mass. That quote lingered in the back of my mind throughout my experience at Brutø, a Green Star–awarded Michelin restaurant in Denver. It felt as though Lavoisier might also have been describing Chef Byron Gomez’s culinary philosophy: ingredients must be ultra-local, handled with respect, and reimagined multiple times across the tasting menu in various forms. At Brutø, zero-waste is not a trend but a guiding principle.
Brutalism, beyond the stark grey concrete buildings of New York—think the Breuer Building—is above all a philosophy of function before form. Purpose precedes ornamentation. At Brutø, the same ethos applies: sustainable, often humble ingredients are elevated through technique. Fermentation, preservation, and other processes ensure a resilient local supply chain year-round, meeting one of the Michelin inspectors’ most important criteria for the coveted Green Star.
The intimate dining space echoes this philosophy. At its heart sits a Neapolitan-style wood-fired oven—a symbol of raw, elemental cooking. It anchors the menu’s primal side, most memorably in the hearth bread course, made from heirloom Colorado grain and served with house-cultured smoked corn butter. This dish, praised by The New York Times as one of the top 23 American dishes of 2023, has become nothing short of iconic.
Guests gather around a polished concrete bar—naturally—encircling the open kitchen. The setting fosters an intimate exchange between chef and diner, each step of the process laid bare. Chef Gomez himself often steps forward to share not only the story of each dish but also his own journey: from working alongside some of the world’s most renowned chefs—including Daniel Humm of the three-Michelin-starred Eleven Madison Park in New York—to leading Brutø with his own vision.
Even the plating reflects the brutalist spirit. Dishes arrive on custom ceramics crafted in partnership with local artist Kazu Oba. From the earthy Mushroom and Greens to the rich Pork and Whey, each course is both a celebration of Colorado’s terroir and a testament to Chef Gomez’s dedication to his guests and to the planet.
To find out more about Brutø, visit the links below:
Brutø
Located in the Free Market at the Dairy Block
1801 Blake Street, Denver, CO 80202
United States of America
Web: brutodenver.com
Tel: 720-325-2195
Email: info@brutodenver.com
Online Res: opentable.com
Instagram: @brutodenver