Trevor Corson, who authored The Story of Sushi, so I assume he knows a thing or two about Japanese culinary heritage, says: “[Omakase is] what the sophisticated customer says to the chef when settling down at the sushi bar. Sushi connoisseurs seldom order off a menu. Traditionally, sushi bars in Japan didn’t even have menus.”
This philosophy is exactly what The Aubrey at The Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park is attempting to capture with the recent opening of The Ukiyo Room, where guests can enjoy a private and intimate experience face-to-face with a selection of the restaurant’s culinary and sommelier team, led by Head Sommelier Maxim Kassir. The concept is designed to remove traditional barriers between the customer and chef and is set within the confines of the beautifully decorated Ukiyo Room. Once at the bar, customers are taken on a beverage-led omakase experience, something that has never really been developed before.
Stepping inside The Aubrey, I imagine myself in a metaphysical Instagram, an art gallery of sorts, which is made up of 260 carefully curated art pieces that cover the walls in an astounding tribute to Edo Japan. This period ran from 1603 to 1868, giving birth to the Ukiyo culture.
Designed by leading interior designer Brady Williams, the restaurant is cleverly made to feel like you are inside the home of a warrior in the Yoshiwara district. As I make my way to The Ukiyo Room, my senses are on high alert: mouth-watering aromatic smells emanate from the impeccably presented dishes passing me by, whilst my gaze gets captured by the unique décor.
Adjacent to the main restaurant, The Ukiyo Room offers a real sense of intimacy and perched at the bar, 6 of us are about to experience our omakase experience, which literally translates to “I’ll leave it up to you”. Whilst it is not uncommon for guests at an omakase to be completely “blind”, leaving the selection of dishes up to the chef entirely, The Aubrey offers a pre-determined menu which guests only access once they are sat, and actually, it’s a nice feeling to relinquish control and let myself be surprised.
To complement the selection of dishes on offer, a drinks pairing, curated by Head Sommelier Maxim Kassir, is suggested. Whilst some of the finest sake on Earth features heavily throughout the evening, my palate is impressed by the champagne poured at the start of the evening. A special collaboration between Hostomme, a vineyard located within the Grand Cru region of Chouilly, and The Aubrey.
Food-wise, we are served a selection of the finest ingredients and products, each reflecting products from Japan’s 72 seasons. We begin our culinary trip with caviar on ice — which comes as an extra — and to go with it, Max pours me a glass of Masumi ‘session sake’, which is smooth, fruity; and most remarkably, the glass it is poured in comes from the Kimura glassware in Japan. Authenticity is key!
Some of the dishes are truly impressive, refined and incredibly well-worked, with an impeccable presentation. A few of the signature courses, which ultimately turn out to be my favourites, are the Wagyu oxtail and bone marrow fried rice, fiery popcorn lobster, and the Alaskan King Crab Leg kimuchi. The overall experience is unique and well worth a visit.
Replacing Bar Boulud with The Aubrey was a power move from the legendary Mandarin Oriental Hotel corporation. Its sophistication is a welcomed contrast to Heston’s Dinner, an otherwise polished, refined venue, but it is arguably lacking the edge and hedonism offered at The Aubrey.
To find out more about The Aubrey and Ukiyo Room, visit the links below…
The Ukiyo Room at The Aubrey
Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park
66 Knightsbridge
SW1X 7LA London
United Kingdom
Web: theaubreycollection.com
Tel: +44 (0)20 7201 3899
Email: rsvplondon@theaubreycollection.com
Instagram: @theaubreylondon
Facebook: @theaubrey_london
All images © Lateef Photography