Fine chips of sweetly mineral beef tenderloin are (literally) pressed into a service as a broad rose-hued stage for an assortment of toppings from both land and sea in this compelling variation on a French classic. Scattered over the tartare, sorrel, bitter cress, wild flowers and fresh as well as pickled green almonds provide a tart and gently astringent textural contrast, while slivers of raw razor clam echo the beef’s umami. Pickled ramp and sautéed wild garlic chives share the plate. “I never really thought I would do [a tartare],” says Burns. “It can be so mundane and ‘French-ish’ with the egg, but I just love beef.”
De Ranke XX Bitter
Pepper chose this Belgian ale because, “while the plate has all of these wonderful flavours on it, there is no super bitter component to it.” Brewer’s Gold and Hallertau hops fill the gap with “a solid amount of clean bitterness- not too all over the place,” Pepper says. Hints of grapefruit in the beer compliment the acidity of the chilli almond vinaigrette that dresses the tartare, while crisp carbonation and moderate alcohol (6.2% ABV) keep things nimble.
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