Burns sources leg of “holistically” raised lamb from Elysian Fields in Pennsylvania, which is partly owned by Thomas Keller. The joint bathes for twelve hours in a sweetened soy and vinegar marinade, before being slow roasted for another twelve hours. Ivory dots of soubise, a concentrated onion sauce, play off the sweetness of the meat, while a verdant puree of watercress and turnip tops call to mind those elysian fields the lamb nibbled before meeting this tender fate. Young, roasted turnips and a split, pickled and also roasted spring onion round out the plate.
Having a beautiful bottle to present is an important part of the ritual of a beverage pairing, and Italian brewers like LoverBeer from just outside of Turin think almost as much about visuals as they do taste. Fermentation is started with an inoculation of wild yeasts including brettanomyces, for the earthy “barnyard” quality it imparts. It is an ideal companion for lamb because “You get a really nice richness from the Damaschine plums,” which are added to the barrels to restart fermentation, Pepper says, “as well as the base beer itself.” The beer is then matured in oak barrels for nine months before bottling.
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