Turia Gardens © Visit Valencia
Bridge over the Turia river © Visit Valencia
Palms in the Turia Gardens © Visit Valencia
When the gates of ancient Valencia parted, El Cid and his cavalry charged towards the enemy to a roaring battlecry: “Por Dios, El Cid y España!” (For God, El Cid and Spain). But unbeknownst to his troops and enemies, the military commander, regally propped up on the stallion and clad in heavy armour, was already dead. Such a romantic portrayal of Spain’s beloved hero, played by Charlton Heston in the 1961 eponymous historical drama, encapsulates the medieval Castilian commander’s bravery, the culmination of many battles he fought in the service of both Christian and Muslim rulers.
The real-life ‘El Cid’, Rodrigo Diaz de Vivar (c.1043–10 July 1099), was born in Vivar, a small town north of Burgos, the capital of Castile. Although his body lies in Burgos Cathedral, a bronze statue of the knight mounted on his horse ‘Babieca’ stands proudly close to Valencia’s historic centre. And if El Cid had foreseen the future, the Valencia he conquered and protected is now Spain’s third most populated region, a community buzzing with energy and character. He would have been pleased to see that culture and history are kept alive, even drooling over the culinary scene, enticing millions of visitors from around the globe to descend upon his cherished city every year.
Although Valencia has spread beyond the ancient ‘walls’, it’s still considered ‘very walkable’, and perusing the city on foot was the only way to find out. On a comfortably warm sunny day, I started my jaunt from the Ruzafa district, crossing a major avenue lined with palm trees, then meandered through narrow streets leading to the historic centre. Along the way, a shaded corner café provided the perfect spot for breakfast while savouring a taste of local life at a much slower, less stressful pace.
Approaching the Old Town, I weaved my way through narrow alleyways, occasionally crossing a one-way system redirecting traffic away from tourist hubs, such as the pedestrianised Plaza de la Reina and the Central Market. An efficient and affordable bus service also allows for quick and easy travel around the city, not to mention cheap and convenient access to coastal areas and beaches. Skyscrapers are non-existent here, with the skyline accented only by ancient monuments and towers.
Plaza de la Reina © Visit Valencia
ARCHITECTURAL GEMS
Following the capture of Valencia (Reconquista) from Muslim rule by the Aragonese Kingdom in the 13th century, a period of growth ensued, and prosperity continued well into the 15th century. It was during this Golden Age that arts and culture flourished, when architectural brilliance blossomed in the form of grandiose Gothic and opulent medieval structures.
Along Carrer de Pascual Genis, the entrance to the Colegio Notarial de Valencia (Notarial College of Valencia) is a striking example of neo-classical and neo-Baroque style. Built between 1883 and 1887, the entrance was redesigned in 1924 using Plateresque features resembling a Baroque altarpiece. Guarding the portal are two sculptured male figures and two god-like military figures brandishing shields and torches.
Not long after, I found myself amongst a throng of visitors gazing at the Palacio del Marques de dos Aguas, referencing Valencia’s two main rivers: Turia and Jucar. The elaborate marble entrance features two peculiar male figures: one looking fed up, and the other seemingly clutching his own head. Once the residence of Valencian nobility, it is now home to the National Museum of Ceramics.
Plaza de la Virgen © Visit Valencia
As with the rest of the country, Valencia has no shortage of majestic churches and cathedrals, and its claim to architectural magnificence is the Cathedral at the heart of Plaza de la Virgen. It took two centuries (13th to 15th century) to build the cathedral, where a mosque once stood. One of the chapels is home to the Holy Chalice, believed to be the ‘Holy Grail’. In the nearby Carmen neighbourhood stands the Church of San Nicolas. Founded in the 13th century, it underwent extensive transformation in the 1690s and is reminiscent of the Sistine Chapel but on a smaller scale.
Moving on to the early 20th century, the Estació del Nord (North Station) was built between 1906 and 1917 in Art Nouveau style, and was declared a Historical Artistic Monument in 1961. Inside, meticulously restored murals depict agricultural traditions and folklore in colourful ceramic tiles, while the main hall’s stained glass windows, vaulted ceilings, and columns detailed in tile mosaics demonstrate fine craftsmanship we rarely see these days.
Clockwise from top left: Palacio del Marques de dos Aguas; Church of San Nicolas; Valencia Cathedral exterior;
Valencia Cathedral interior © Rowena Marella-Daw
Green Spaces
Taking a break from cultural overload, I headed towards the city’s biggest green space, concentrated along the site of the former Turia River. The old river had been diverted south in the aftermath of the October 1957 floods, which claimed 81 lives and caused extensive damage to the city. Valencia has always been prone to flooding due to its location in the centre of the Gulf of Valencia on the Mediterranean, and historical records estimate that around 75 floods have occurred over the past seven centuries.
From east to west, the entire length of the exposed riverbed was transformed into the city’s ‘green lungs’, inaugurated in 1986 as the Turia Gardens. Encompassing roughly 300 acres, it averages 160 metres in width and stretches nearly nine kilometres, making it the longest urban park in Europe. During the summer months, meadows, blooming Jacaranda trees, columns of palms and orange trees provide respite from the heat. And there’s no shortage of walking paths, jogging and cycling lanes, recreational grounds and children’s play areas. Between the Bioparc and the City of Arts and Sciences complex at opposite ends of the park are 18 bridges providing access to historic landmarks and museums. Those who don’t fancy walking the garden’s entire length can take a scenic tour on one of many bus services running parallel to the park.
Turia Gardens from above © Visit Valencia
While Valencia honours its past, it also embraces the future, as I discovered during a visit to the City of Arts and Sciences. Sprawled across the Turia Gardens’ eastern border, this is where dynamic architecture bypasses the present and pole-vaults into the future with a clutch of six striking structures reminiscent of a sci-fi setting.
Resembling a spaceship half-submerged in water, the Hemispheric, designed by Valencian architect Santiago Calatrava, is dedicated to state-of-the-art audio-visual projections, such as IMAX, 3D digital cinema, as well as educational films. The wave-like Oceanographic building, the largest aquarium in Europe, represents various marine ecosystems and habitats. The nearby Agora, resembling a gladiator’s helmet, is a multi-purpose space for promoting scientific and cultural programmes. Both structures were designed by architect Félix Candela.
Most impressive is the Palau de les Arts Reina Sofia, an architectural tour de force created as a centre for the performing arts. The Science Museum resembles a giant creature’s spiky backbone, and nearby, there’s the Umbracle, with its curved white frame encasing a Mediterranean garden, sculptures, and indigenous plants.
City of Arts and Sciences © Rowena Marella-Daw
It was worth taking a break from the city’s hustle and bustle to explore Albufera Natural Park, where the iconic Paella originated. And despite its short distance of 12 kilometres south of Valencia proper, this tranquil oasis felt like miles from civilisation. Spanning over 2800 hectares, the freshwater Albufera Lagoon is the largest in Spain, providing the ideal environment for cultivating rice in paddy fields and a habitat for around 300 species of birds. My relaxing ride on board a handcrafted boat or “Albuferenc” glided and meandered along a labyrinth of marshes, with gentle breezes blowing from the sea fanning off the intense heat. Sunset boat trips are highly recommended, and ideally followed by a sumptuous Paella dinner in one of the local restaurants.
Valencia is no doubt the perfect destination for those who appreciate history, culture, ancient and modern architecture. El Cid would be proud of the city he fought for.
Turia Gardens’ cycle and jogging lanes © Visit Valencia
Paella being served © Visit Valencia
Albufera Natural Park © Visit Valencia
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