For a very long time, Northumberland has been taunting me with its vast empty beaches, castles, spellbinding daybreaks, celestial spectacles and ancient landmarks. The list goes on and on. It is reported that Northumberland National Park is the most sparsely populated National Park in Britain and the fact that it hasn’t yet succumbed to mass tourism is music to my ears.
And while a Northumbrian adventure is in the cards, the opportunity to experience the ‘life of Riley’ in this northern gem is too good to miss. My starting point is Matfen Hall Hotel, Golf & Spa, a mere 30-minute drive from Newcastle Upon Tyne, yet far enough from civilisation.
Matfen Hall is a remarkable Grade II-listed mansion surrounded by 300 acres of parkland. The estate’s history goes as far back as the 13th century, when the manor of West Matfen was owned by a certain Philip de Ulcote. Over the centuries, ownership passed on from one noble family to another.
Fast forward to the 19th century, when the Hall was rebuilt between 1832 and 1836 to replace the old manor for Sir William Blackett, 6th Baronet. It remained in the family until the death in 1961 of Sir Hugh Blackett, the 8th Baronet. Thereafter, the Hall was leased to the Leonard Cheshire Foundation as a residential nursing home for severely disabled residents for 29 years. Following the Foundation’s departure in 1994, Matfen Hall underwent restoration and opened its doors 5 years later as a golf and country club hotel.
The legacy of this architectural treasure continued in the hands of its new owners, the Walwick Estate Group, when they purchased the property in 2020 and invested millions of pounds into restoring the Hall to its former glory. Matfen Hall reopened in 2023 to become Northumberland’s first and only 5-star hotel, and the following year attained the prestigious AA Five-Star rating.
As I arrive at Matfen Hall, a mixture of sun and clouds accentuate the grandeur of its Jacobean-style architecture spanning three storeys. Inside the Great Hall, Gothic features evoke passion and drama, an uncanny cross between a cathedral and a Hammer film set. The vaulted ceiling’s ornamental patterns and wooden buttresses compete for attention against an imposing wooden staircase leading to a galleried hallway.
The sun’s rays make a spectacle as they come and go, filtering through the towering stained-glass window. Sitting comfortably in silence on the Chesterfield sofa, I imagine the monumental task involved in restoring this property down to the smallest authentic detail. Then, out of nowhere, a staff member appears with a welcome drink. I pause my thoughts and follow as he leads me to my room.
Matfen Hall’s 63 bedrooms are spread across the property. Above the Great Hall are traditional-style spacious luxury suites where I imagine generations of noblemen and their guests would have stayed. And nothing less than an emperor-size bed and marble en-suite bathroom would suffice for 21st-century sybarites. The balcony rooms have views of the local church and Matfen village, while the more contemporary rooms are located in the rear of the property, connected by a labyrinth of hallways.
We exit the building through a back door, where a small garden with a fountain provides a secluded nook for two detached cottages. The first cottage is my abode — an elegant one-bedroom suite ideal for couples and honeymooners desiring more privacy.
The next morning, a path behind the cottage takes me to the terrace overlooking the sculptured gardens and 27-hole golf course, which goes as far as the eyes can squint at. I can see why golfers love it here, especially those who enjoy challenges in the form of a traditional Ha-Ha stone and a three-hole loop around the main lake. There’s also a golf academy, driving range and PGA-level coaching services. For non-golfers like me, just sitting out in the sunshine while sipping a G&T and admiring nature’s bounty is a simple luxury.
A dose of fresh air and sunshine always works up the appetite, and what better way to start my culinary jaunt at Matfen Hall than with a tasting menu at the Emerald Restaurant, where ornate ceilings and wall-to-wall shelves filled with historic tomes create a dignified old-world vibe. The dining experience described as ‘five-star’ is justified by dishes that titillate the taste buds with a creative combination of ingredients, flavours and textures. The presentation is elegant but unpretentious, contrasting robust, soft morsels with delicate and crunchy garnishes. All these are, of course, washed down with a fine selection of wines.
The next day’s highlight is a Laurent-Perrier Afternoon Tea, which, although usually enjoyed at the Drawing Room, can be served at the Emerald Restaurant for large groups. The three-tiered delights include a Braised Leg of Lamb Roll and Black Bomber Cheese Scone among its regulars, while mouth-watering seasonal pastries comprise Pistachio & Orange Blossom frangipani, Hibiscus & Lychee Choux, and Chocolate & Salted Caramel. Adding a tasting flight of Laurent-Perrier Harmony, Brut and Rosé, plus the soothing sounds played by a harpist, feels like a trip to heaven.
Over at The Cloisters Restaurant and Bar, they offer casual all-day dining and a table d’hôte menu. However, the mood changes depending on when and where you’re seated. Dinner at the mezzanine level, with the Great Hall’s stained-glass window as its backdrop, feels particularly romantic. The Keepers Restaurant and Bar is a casual haunt where hungry golfers and guests can satisfy ravenous appetites with quality burgers, stone-baked pizzas, steaks and classic dishes. On a warm, sunny day, early birds can take pole position on the outdoor terrace overlooking the golf course and parkland.
My favourite place for chilling out is the 1832 Bar, named after the date Matfen Hall was rebuilt. Mirrors and lighting accentuate the beauty of Gothic arches made from rich oak. Velvet sofas, brass-based barstools and an ornate period fireplace, along with the ceiling’s bejewelled patterns, all add character and richness. There’s a good selection of fine wines and spirits, while a private Champagne tasting in the cellar can also be arranged.
I could easily spend the time here just wallowing in comfort and luxury, but it would be a crime not to explore the great, wild outdoors. A weekend is certainly not enough, but it’s a start. Only 10 miles away is the Chesters Roman Fort, where I meet a re-enactor looking formidable in a Roman soldier’s armour and learn about the nitty-gritty of making armoured plates, chainmail, swords and battle strategies. Close by is Chesters Stables, Matfen Hall’s sister property designed for luxurious self-catering retreats.
With little time left, I vow to return, making a note of visiting Hadrian’s Wall, the UNESCO World Heritage site stretching 73 miles coast-to-coast. The historic market town of Hexham and picturesque Corbridge village are also on my hit list, not to mention Dark Skies locations for viewing galaxies and the Aurora Borealis.
Back at Matfen Hall, it’s time for a bit of pampering at The Retreat before heading back to the rat race of the South East. No doubt, this brief sojourn at Matfen Hall has given me a taste of what life was like for its wealthy patrons. It’s reassuring to see that nothing much has changed — ruins have been preserved, beautiful landscapes remain untouched. Best of all, they can be enjoyed by everyone from all walks of life. This is just the beginning of my long-awaited search for sylvan bliss in the heart of Northumberland.
To find out more about Matfen Hall Hotel, Golf & Spa, visit the links below:
Matfen Hall
Web: matfenhall.com
Tel: 01661 886500
Email: info@matfenhall.com
Instagram: @matfenhall
Facebook: @matfenhallhotel