Lysippos Apoxyomenos credit Rowena Marella-Daw
Boutique Hotel Alhambra façade
There’s a first time for everything, such as peeping through a circular glass window, straining my neck for a rare backside view of a naked young man with an athletic physique. The 1.92-metre-tall figure in question is that of the Apoxyomenos, “the Scraper”, a term ancient Greeks attributed to an athlete who brushes off sweat and dust from his body using a curved instrument or ‘strings’.
The pose captured in bronze was discovered in 1996 by a Belgian tourist 45 metres beneath the northern Adriatic Sea and is believed to be a Hellenic copy of the original Lysippos Apoxyomenos. The statue took six years to restore, and now resides permanently at the eponymous museum situated along the Mali Lošinj harbour.
Leaving the athlete for others to appreciate, I head towards the hills of Mali Lošinj to check out another restoration of an architectural nature — Boutique Hotel Alhambra & Villa Augusta. The original hotel, designed by Austrian architect Alfred Keller, dates back to the Art Nouveau period and today comprises two buildings — the Hotel Alhambra with its annexe, Villa Augusta, and the new wing.
The property is said to pay homage to The Alhambra, the world-renowned Moorish palace and fortress in Granada, although it bears more resemblance to French Riviera glamour with its terracotta façade and lush gardens framed by cypress and palm trees. And the ace up its sleeve is its location in an exclusive cul-de-sac of Čikat Bay, intimately close to the bay’s emerald waters and forest of ancient pines.
Boutique Hotel Alhambra Lobby
Entering the new building’s main reception area, I find an interesting installation of contemporary lighting fixtures and modern furniture complemented by natural light pouring in through wall-to-wall glass windows showcasing views of the bay and forest beyond. This lobby is the focal point that links all three buildings, accessed from different levels, a labyrinth of doors and alleyways. A striking feature of the lower-level outdoor dining area is a curved floor-to-ceiling mirrored wall reflecting the waterfront.
The main hotel’s bedrooms are easy to access by stairs or lift, overlooking the glass-roofed atrium. Bedrooms on this part of the building have views of the bay through spacious terraces. The walls and pillars are thick and sturdy, a testament to the high standards of architecture from a bygone era. The décor is elegant and traditional, although my favourite spot has to be the spacious marble bathroom with French doors opening onto the balcony.
Finding my way from the main hotel to the adjacent Villa Augusta through a maze of hallways is a bit tricky, but not such a bad thing, making the villa a haven of seclusion and privacy. Art Deco-inspired details do justice to the era — from iron bannisters and frosted double doors to the coffee table and jazzy black and white geometric-patterned marble floors. Views of the bay and forest are even more impressive from here. And it’s good to know that the entire Villa Augusta is available to rent.
Clockwise from top-left: Villa Augusta staircase; Villa Augusta suite living room; bedroom view credit Rowena Marella-Daw; Villa Augusta suite bedroom
ALFRED KELLER RESTAURANT
Sea breezes and Mediterranean waters have a way of working up the appetite. Fortunately, the Alfred Keller restaurant is just a few paces from my room. The name can be misleading to those not familiar with Alfred Keller, the architect who rebuilt the hotel.
However, the real star of the show here is Austrian chef Michael Gollenz, whose passion for cooking developed while growing up on his family’s farm and learning the basics from his dad, who was then a chef. Gollenz gradually worked his way up from an apprentice to Commis de Cuisine and Chef de Partie while working at prestigious Michelin-starred restaurants before taking over the reins at Alfred Keller in 2021.
Gollenz brings to the table a melange of flavours and textures with his signature cooking style rooted in classic French techniques, infused with subtle influences from exotic regions, in particular the Far East. There’s a lot going on in each dish — a complex combination of ingredients, colours and layers; I have to remind myself to pause and appreciate the hard work that goes into creating an impeccable spread. The wine cellar’s collection of 610 wine labels includes excellent Croatian wines, and I’m pleased to have a choice of soft pairings to go with my meals, too.
All the hard graft and dedication paid off, garnering Gollenz a ‘Great Chef of Tomorrow’ Gault & Millau Croatia trophy in 2022, while the Alfred Keller restaurant was named ‘Europe’s Best Fine Dining Hotel Restaurant’ at the World Culinary Awards. It also holds one Michelin star and 16.5 Gault & Millau points.
Dish at Alfred Keller restaurant
RESTAURANT MATSUNOKI
My fine dining jaunt continues at Hotel Bellevue, a short stroll from Boutique Hotel Alhambra. While both hotels belong to the Lošinj Hotels & Villas group, their architecture couldn’t be more different. Sprawling and minimalist, Hotel Bellevue’s all-white façade reminds of a cruise ship, and its appeal is down to individual taste. My main mission here is to dine at Restaurant Matsunoki, which has been honoured with a Michelin Plate and named “Croatia’s Best Hotel Restaurant” by the World Culinary Awards in 2022 and 2023.
Another first for me is meeting Head Chef Orhan Cakiroglu, who hails from Turkey. His welcoming smile and warm disposition are equally matched by a wealth of experience and mastery of Japanese culinary techniques, the result of which is an array of inspired dishes that embolden traditional Japanese cuisine. There’s no limit to the team’s creative flair, even traditional sushi gets an eye-popping makeover. The feast ends with a flourish: a well-crafted dessert with a concealed rich Matcha ice cream, a long-time favourite of mine, complemented by a wee dram of refined Nikka From The Barrel whisky. To say this is outstanding Japanese food is an understatement. Every morsel is savoured, every dish polished off.
Clockwise from top-left: Sashimi at Restaurant Matsunoki; dumplings at Restaurant Matsunoki; Boutique Hotel Alhambra Spa Inhalation Bar; seaside promenade running along Čikat Bay
The promenade fronting both hotels along Čikat Bay is ideal for a post-dinner stroll, although a longer route from the hotel to Mali Lošinj the morning after burns a few more calories. Cooling off at Hotel Bellevue’s indoor pool, followed by a long massage at the Spa Clinic, rounds off the day beautifully.
Before leaving Boutique Hotel Alhambra, I make my way to the spa’s Kurhaus Inhalation Bar to fill my lungs with the ‘Kur’, a soothing mist made from a concoction of sea water and medicinal herbs. This tradition has been part of the healing rituals Lošinj became famous for since the 1890s.
After just a few days, the image of that naked bronze athlete had faded away, replaced by memories of epicurean indulgence and the natural beauty of Lošinj. It may be my first visit, but it won’t be the last.
Boutique Hotel Alhambra & Villa Augusta are members of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World.
Boutique Hotel Alhambra Spa Pool
To find out more about Boutique Hotel Alhambra, visit the links below:
Boutique Hotel Alhambra
Čikat ul. 16
51550 Mali Lošinj
Croatia
Web: boutiquehotelalhambra.com
Tel: +385 51 260 700
Email: alhambra@losinj-hotels.com
Instagram: @boutiquehotelalhambra