Cycene private dining room © Rebecca Dickson
Cycene dry-ageing chamber © Rebecca Dickson
Pickling at Cycene © Rebecca Dickson
In August 2024, Taz Sarhane stepped into the spotlight as Cycene’s latest Head Chef, signalling a fresh evolution for the Michelin-starred Shoreditch restaurant. Born and raised in South-East London to English-Moroccan parents, Sarhane brings a deep-rooted connection to nature and a strong respect for seasonal produce—an ethos shaped by early experiences foraging with family in North Africa and later refined in the kitchens of Claude Bosi’s Bibendum and Brooklands. Now leading the kitchen at Cycene, Sarhane continues to explore preservation techniques—fermentation, pickling, and ageing—as a way to capture ingredients at their peak.
Taz’s appointment builds on the restaurant’s commitment to craft and creativity, deepening its ties to local producers and its focus on thoughtful, ingredient-led cooking. His ethos resonates deeply with that of Blue Mountain School—Cycene’s home—a multi-layered cultural space founded by James and Christie Brown that merges food, design, and craftsmanship.
FOUR sits down with Taz to explore the inspiration behind his new menu and his vision for Cycene’s future…
Cycene’s bar, where the 10-course dining experience begins before moving upstairs © Rebecca Dickson
Your upbringing in South East London and your time spent with family in North Africa clearly shaped your relationship with food. Can you tell us more about those early experiences and how they continue to influence your cooking today?
My primary influence on my culinary thoughts is freshness and flavour. I’m very strongly of the opinion that the food that is on offer in the UK in supermarkets tastes of nothing. And, this is the food that we are taught is the only option available to us. In both Morocco and South East London, there’s a big market culture, in Morocco, providing only hyper-seasonal fruit and vegetables, and in South London, selling staples reminiscent of home. The seasons in Morocco change month to month, and traders sell fruit on the side of the street, available to eat there or to take away.
The scrutiny involved in both the Afro-Caribbean community in London, and the mothers of Moroccan families is undeniable – if the produce is not good enough, it doesn’t end up on the plate.
You’ve worked in some incredible kitchens across London – from Bibendum to Brooklands. What were some of the most important lessons you took from those chapters, and how have you brought them with you into Cycene?
There are many lessons which are still at the forefront of my mind. The clearest of which was one day when I put away some bananas which were underripe… Let’s just say it was expressed very clearly that the importance of the quality of ingredients is paramount, regardless of whether it is for a guest or for staff.
It is now of huge importance to me as someone who is leading a team, that staff get the correct nutrition, eat balanced meals and drink enough water every day. We are chefs, not robots!
You’ve mentioned your belief that nature dictates what’s best on the plate. How do you approach seasonality in your menu planning, and what role does preservation play in extending those fleeting moments of flavour?
My main inspiration comes from the seasons. A walk through the forest can be key, certain smells and thoughts trigger things in our brains. Even better yet, a trip to a farm can heavily influence what’s on my plate.
It’s a difficult thing when speaking about preservation—every technique that I use at the restaurant will somehow manipulate the taste of the ingredient, and what is left is a moment in time captured through flavour.
Langoustine, Wagyu and Pork Crackling
Since stepping into the role of Head Chef at Cycene, how have you begun shaping the restaurant’s next chapter? What is your long-term vision for the restaurant?
The next chapter for Cycene is experience-led eating. For me, enjoying food is multi-sensory, and the experience has to include more than just food. Dining at Cycene involves moving from room to room, dishes being plated tableside and a visit to the kitchen.
Cycene’s concept is deeply embedded in its locality. How does that sense of place affect the way you think about hospitality and menu curation?
Locality for us means an ongoing commitment to British produce and seasonality. The menu is guided by what’s available from growers and suppliers across the UK—whether that’s seafood from the coast, herbs from small farms, or heritage vegetables in their peak. Working within the rhythms of the British landscape allows us to stay grounded and intentional, both in what we serve and how we welcome guests.
Cycene’s space is described as an ‘alchemic cultural environment’. How does being surrounded by art, design, and craftsmanship feed your own creativity in the kitchen?
At Blue Mountain School, all artistic disciplines are connected and play into Cycene’s presentation methods. For example, ceramicist Steve Harrison is a long-term collaborator with Blue Mountain School, and his works can be bought in-store, but are also how we serve our broths in the bar area. It is this mix of art and functionality that makes for such a good match.
Dishes on the menu at Cycene
You’ve spoken about building personal relationships with farmers and suppliers. Could you expand more on this and perhaps share an example of a collaboration or ingredient that has particularly inspired a recent dish?
Much of Cycene’s seafood is sourced from Henderson’s—a Devon-based supplier that operates with a shore-to-door policy. They supply our crab, langoustines, and more, and are led by local fishermen, who know the seasonality of the area the best.
You treat the tasting menu as one cohesive journey while showing a deep respect for British micro-seasons. What’s your process like when developing new courses? Who/what does this involve?
It starts with the produce—what’s coming through the door, what’s tasting good that week. From there, it’s a collaborative process with the team. We’ll test and adjust a dish a few times and consider how it fits within the flow of the menu. It’s important that each course has a purpose and works in balance with the others, both in flavour and in how it moves guests through the experience.
How do you hope guests will feel during their dining experience and after they leave the restaurant? What emotions do you hope to conjure, and what’s the lasting impression you want to create?
Dining at Cycene is an experience that is designed to feel like both a restaurant and a home, so creating a warm, intimate atmosphere is essential. There is a real sense of relaxation—from the moment guests arrive, lights are dimmed, and candles are burning in the bar, where seasonal broth and bread are served. It’s about switching off from the outside world.
Dining room at Cycene © Rebecca Dickson
You’re very passionate about collaboration in your kitchen and about fostering a good working environment that keeps your brigade motivated and inspired. Could you share more about how you achieve this?
Respect is the key. My first job in a kitchen was as a kitchen porter, and it taught me that everyone’s role should be seen and valued.
Why do you think you love cooking and the culinary arts so much? How does this tie in with your overall food philosophy, and how is this put forward on the plate?
One of my earliest memories is sitting in the kitchen with my dad, and him teaching me how to make Moroccan meatballs when I was very young. Food can contain memories, and combining those techniques I learnt from family with my own philosophy, which I took from kitchen experience, allows for the cultivation of something new.
Lastly, what inspires you outside of the kitchen? Are there books, art, music, or places that influence your work?
Walking in a forest with a foraging guide in hand on a Sunday morning is perhaps one of the most inspiring things to me. There is such a diversity of flavours to be found right under our noses, from wild garlic to elderflowers, and these always inform my menu choices.
Taz foraging in Scotland
To find out more about Taz and Cycene, visit the links below…
CYCENE
Blue Mountain School
9 Chance St
London E2 7JB
Web: bluemountain.school/cycene
Email: cycene@bluemountain.school
Online Booking: sevenrooms.com
Instagram: @cycene.bms