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Maxime Frédéric: Passionate About Pastry

Chefs
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30 Aug 2024
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8 min read

Hailing from a long line of French dairy farmers, Pastry Chef Maxime Frédéric honours the agricultural produce and prowess that shaped his childhood, creating incredible pastries that tell stories of heritage, passion, creativity and authenticity.

Mille-feuille on the menu at Le Tout-Paris © Maki Manoukian

Le Tout-Paris, a chic eatery set on an outdoor terrace at Cheval Blanc Paris © Alexandre Tabaste

Paris-Brest on the menu at Le Tout-Paris © Maki Manoukian

The quiet countryside of Normandy, France, where dairy farming is a way of life, set the stage for Maxime Frédéric’s foray into the world of pâtisserie. Born into a family deeply rooted in the region’s agricultural traditions, Maxime’s connection to the land and its produce is more than just familial — it’s in his DNA. “I have milk running through my veins,” he exclaims, tracing the lineage of his culinary heritage back to his dairy farmer grandfather.

Maxime’s journey into pastry began early on, by the side of his grandmother, Bernadette, in her rustic farm kitchen. Kept away from the stables due to allergies, he was lured to the kitchen by the aroma of freshly baked treats, which quickly captured his heart. “I spent more time in the kitchen baking with her than in the stables,” he reminisces. This childhood bond, filled with yoghurt cakes and apple tarts, laid the foundation for a passion that would define his life.

As he grew older, his culinary education continued through the lens of the TV show Bon Appétit Bien Sûr, hosted by renowned chef Joël Robuchon. Maxime diligently practised Robuchon’s recipes, paving the way for a future in pastry-making. Despite disappointing his teachers by choosing a CAP Pastry in professional baking over a more conventional path, Maxime’s dedication and talent shone during his two years of apprenticeship with Christopher Jeanne at La Grigne bakery and pastry shop in Argences, Calvados.

The alliance with Jeanne extended beyond the kitchen, as the duo participated in pastry competitions, marking the beginning of Maxime’s illustrious career. Since then, he’s seen his way through a handful of prestigious kitchens and collaborations that have shaped his culinary identity. With every experience, he soaked up all the knowledge, honing his skills and learning from the best.

Chef - Maxime Frédéric

Hero: Maxime Frédéric and Arnaud Donckele at Plénitude © Sylvie Becquet | Above: Chef Maxime Frédéric at Cheval Blanc Paris © Matias Indjic

Working alongside distinguished pastry chef Camille Lesecq at Le Meurice hotel in Paris, Maxime’s professional trajectory catapulted him into the limelight. This was followed by a stint as the Deputy Chef of the iconic Cédric Grolet at Le Meurice, which prepared him for his role as the Head Pastry Chef at the Michelin-starred restaurants of the Four Seasons George V in Paris — Christian Le Squer’s globally recognised Le Cinq, Italian restaurant Le George led by Simone Zanoni, and David Bizet’s L’Orangerie. Hereafter, his rise in the world of pastry continued, leading him to join famed chef Arnaud Donckele’s team at Cheval Blanc Paris in 2019 for the grand opening of the Maison — a position he continues to hold with much revere.

“I have worked really hard to get to where I am as a chef, and I’m always coming up with creative ideas, which is something that has influenced my pastry career,” reflects Maxime. The challenge of heading the George V pâtisserie team at the age of 28 and, later, the exciting prospect of joining Arnaud Donckele at Cheval Blanc Paris required him to be daring, bold and boundlessly creative — three key principles that form the bedrock of his cooking philosophy.

“I love creating surprises for guests by pushing the boundaries of culinary techniques to create plated desserts that are like sculptures,” he explains. This commitment to innovation is evident at ‘Maxime Frédéric at Louis Vuitton’ in Paris, a café and coffee shop he opened with the esteemed luxury brand in 2022, where his ingenious salt-inspired menu offers a unique blend of artistry and taste. Ranging from hazelnut entremets to chequered meringue tarts, all adorned with Louis Vuitton’s famous signature motifs, this sensational selection of confections draws visitors from all over the world.

“Available throughout the day, the pastries come in a variety of creations such as the ‘signature’ chocolate éclair,” explains Maxime. “I have also created an assortment of chocolates inspired by Louis Vuitton signature codes, encased in the Maison’s emblematic boxes.”

Le Goûter at Limbar at Cheval Blanc Paris © Franck Hamel

As a chef who loves his craft deeply, Maxime views his day-to-day work not only as his profession but as a journey of self-discovery and growth. “Being a pastry chef is not just a job; it’s a passion. I grew up making pastry — it is rooted in my DNA. I am continuing to evolve as a pastry chef alongside an amazing team in one of the best hotels in the world. It’s not enough for me to only delight guests with my desserts; the most important thing for me is the people I work with.”

As a leader, Maxime wants his kitchen to be a place of camaraderie and collaboration where his close-knit team can thrive because they are supported and valued. “My pastry laboratory is an environment whereby everyone, from the kitchen porter to the service team, is all involved and evolving as a team. I am responsible for the team spirit, and it’s important to me to bring everyone together,” he shares.

Yet, running a pastry kitchen does not come without its challenges — and Maxime handles these according to his mantra: “Never make concessions, always strive for excellence, and never take the easy way out.” 

It’s exactly for this reason that his creations are a true labour of love; he admits that from conception to execution, his pastries involve 10% inspiration and 90% perspiration. He takes no shortcuts, putting the requisite time and energy into making pastries that he can be proud of while paying homage to his family.

Interior of Plénitude © Alexandre Tabaste

Apple and quince dessert at Plénitude © Ilya Kagan

Interior of Le Tout-Paris © Alexandre Tabaste

“My grandparents were a huge inspiration to me, and I appreciate the sacrifices they made whilst working on their farm. I now have the chance to pay tribute to them through my pastry creations and showcase all the hard work that goes into creating these pastries and desserts,” says Maxime.

“If I hadn’t been a pastry chef, but above all, if my sister hadn’t taken over my family farm, I would have been a farmer. However, through my work on the farm and at Cheval Blanc Paris, I am proving that you can be a farmer and a chef and make the right choices when it comes to respecting animals and the environment.”

Maxime’s love for raw ingredients — cream, fruits, milk, wheat and roasted maise flour — forms the cornerstone of his recipes. “These ingredients enable me to transform pastries and breads into authentic creations,” he shares. “I also like using alternative sugars as a seasoning, and I will let you in on a little secret: I don’t really like sweet things, I’m more into savoury things, so I don’t use white sugar; I replace a lot of it with honey. I also work with the Observatoire Français de l’Apidologie (OFA), which looks after the health of bees. Honey offers a world of almost infinite possibilities with its sweetness and delicious taste. Plus, it can be produced from chestnut, buckwheat and lavender.

“Above all, the taste is really important to me. In pastrymaking, we are sometimes too focused on ‘beauty’ and less on taste, so I’ve always wanted to get closer to this philosophy of cooking.”

Interior of Limbar at Cheval Blanc Paris © Alexandre Tabaste

Referring to himself as an “activist” pastry chef, Maxime is adamant about supporting small producers and sourcing his ingredients as sustainably and responsibly as possible. “Instead of purchasing my ingredients from the Rungis food market in France like most chefs, I looked for an organic farm in Normandy to supply me with ingredients,” explains Maxime. “This is when I discovered Corinne and Christophe Decorde’s farm, which I have helped to grow and develop, and this farm now delivers 850 litres of milk to me every week.”

From the produce to the techniques and the inspiration behind each creation, Maxime is all about staying true to his roots, creating sweet treats embedded with stories and recollections from his youth. In his eyes, there’s no magic recipe for pastry-making; instead, it’s about being 100% authentic. The key to successful desserts, according to Maxime, lies in sparking memories or emotions through the act of eating.

“At Cheval Blanc Paris, I would say the Pear Douillon is my favourite signature creation. A melt-in-the-mouth delicacy crowned with puff pastry inspired by my childhood on the farm,” shares Maxime. “As a child, at precisely eleven o’clock in the morning, I helped my grandmother make desserts, and every day, there was a cake on our table as an afternoon treat. As a nod to my grandmother’s caramelised baked apple, we have created a Douillon — a pear wrapped in pastry and generously sprinkled with cinnamon and sugar. At its heart, we have placed a beautiful sprig of vanilla.

“We also have some regional desserts to highlight, such as the Annécien, a kind of Savoyard cake, or the Fromage Blanc Tart, or, of course, the mille-feuille, which took me almost two years to master.”

Pear Douillon, served at Plénitude © Richard Haughton

Generous but light, all of Maxime’s confections showcase the perfect balance of flavours and textures. Whether it’s the morning selection of crisp croissants served to hotel guests at the five-star Cheval Blanc Paris or the dazzling desserts on the menu at three-Michelin-starred Plénitude by Arnaud Donckele, each of Maxime’s creations is a carefully considered work of pastry art.

“From breakfast to dinner, or as an afternoon snack, I seek to create new sensations at Cheval Blanc Paris. For example, a pâtisserie inspired by a rediscovered spice or an exceptional olive oil. I also like to create new memories by reintroducing a touch of magic to traditional dishes such as crêpes, rice pudding or waffles with tantalising flavours,” explains Maxime.

Now internationally recognised for his pastry prowess, Maxime continues to expand his empire, taking his sweet treats to all corners of the globe. This past winter, for the first time, Le Chocolat Maxime Frédéric at Louis Vuitton launched at Cheval Blanc Courchevel and made its way to Singapore, too. Summer also saw Maxime heading to Saint-Tropez with chef Arnaud Donckele, taking the reins of the kitchens at the Hotel White 1921.

However, for Maxime, success is not measured by his stature or accolades but by the satisfaction of his co-workers and the delight he brings guests. “A feeling of fulfilment is the real award for my team — it’s just as important as the praise our guests leave us. It means a lot to our profession,” he emphasises. The respect he holds for his team, collaborators, craftsmen and farmers is key to his triumph, and he remains dedicated to helping the people and businesses he works with to grow and develop. Looking ahead to the rest of 2024, Maxime’s plans are woven with dreams, a commitment to continue evolving, and a desire to keep creating magic through his pastries.

Maxime Frédéric © Sylvie Becquet

Charlotte aux Poires © Cécile & Guillaume

Interior of Le Tout-Paris © Alexandre Tabaste

To find out more about Maxime Frédéric and Cheval Blanc Paris, contact the hotel using the below details:

Cheval Blanc Paris

8 quai du Louvre
75001 Paris
France

Web: chevalblanc.com
Email: info.paris@chevalblanc.com
Instagram: @chevalblancparis | @maxime.frederic

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