There is a point on the road above Bolzano when the city starts to disappear and South Tyrol changes character. The streets, shops and arcades give way to forests, meadows and open skies; the air cools slightly; and the Dolomites begin to emerge in the distance. This is the Ritten, or Renon, a high, sun-lit plateau that has somehow remained one of the region’s best-kept secrets.
How it has remained so under the radar is a miracle: the views are spectacular, a leisurely pace pervades the place, and Bolzano is still close enough to make the journey feel easy rather than remote. Yet the Ritten has never had the same obvious draw as South Tyrol’s more famous valleys and ski towns, which is exactly why it feels so special. People come here for the freedom of space in nature: for woodland walks, to be doused in beautiful mountain light, to breathe clean air, and to revel in the pleasure of being somewhere that soothes the soul without having to share it with everyone else.
ADLER Ritten sits perfectly within that landscape. Perched above Bolzano at around 1,200 metres and bordered by larch trees and rolling green pastures, this unassuming five-star lodge looks out towards the Dolomites in all their glory. The property unfolds across the slope in a series of timber buildings, chalets and suites, each designed to feel at home in its natural setting, with floor-to-ceiling windows that open the interiors to the scenery beyond.
There are just 42 keys, which keeps the scale intimate, but each option offers its own charm. There are junior suites, which come complete with balconies and private bio-saunas, as well as larger chalets featuring cosy living areas, fireplaces, and terraces. What connects them all is a sense of privacy and ease, complemented by a warm, home-like atmosphere that permeates throughout the resort.
Naturally, the setting is key to why visitors are attracted to this picturesque pocket of the world, and ADLER Ritten has become the first ADLER property to remain open year-round, without the usual January closure, allowing guests to see a side of the Ritten that is often missed. The activity programme changes weekly and makes good use of the plateau throughout the seasons. In warmer months, there are guided walks, cycling and e-biking routes, yoga, fitness and nature-focused experiences. In winter, there is curling on the artificial ice rink in front of the chalets—which has proved very popular among guests—along with snowshoeing and sledging, but the real appeal may lie in the slower winter pleasures: a walk through the frosty woods, a swim in warm water, a long dinner beside a fire or an early night in bed.
The historic Renon train is also close by, the cable car links the plateau to Bolzano, and the surrounding area offers plenty for anyone who wants to venture outside the lodge. Still, part of the pleasure of ADLER Ritten is that there is no great pressure to leave, and the extensive wellness circuit plays into that narrative. In the main lodge, the saltwater pool runs from indoors to outdoors, so guests can swim in warm water while looking towards the Dolomites. There are treatment rooms, a steam bath and a panoramic relaxation space, but the most memorable part may be the spa in the woods. Set among the trees, with a Finnish sauna, an aromatic bio-sauna, and a relaxation room, it has a lovely simplicity to it. Heat, silence, the smell of wood, the sound of leaves or snow outside; here, there is little to do but slow down and savour the beauty of the Ritten.
Likewise, food keeps things grounded in the region. Chef Cristian Cinquemani works with local ingredients, bringing together South Tyrolean flavours and a lighter Mediterranean touch. The Lodge All-inclusive Arrangement—which includes all beverages, both alcoholic and non-alcoholic—makes dining feel relaxed and flexible, with generous homemade dishes and regional specialities at breakfast, snacks and light plates in the afternoon, and dinner served with a little extra pizzaz thanks to the open kitchen.
For all its mountain calm, ADLER Ritten is surprisingly simple to reach. Bolzano Airport has become an increasingly attractive gateway to the region, with growing connections and a scale that still feels easy to navigate. It is small, efficient and calm, with none of the long queues or airport frenzy that can drain the joy out of a holiday. From Bolzano, the lodge is about 20 minutes by car, and for those who want a more scenic start, they can take a cable car from the city and continue on foot through the woods.
The Ritten may not be South Tyrol’s most talked-about address, but that is exactly its charm. Here, the Dolomites come without the crowds, winter without the rush, and luxury without the fuss. ADLER Ritten understands that balance beautifully. It offers comfort, good food, space and restorative spa rituals, but leaves the landscape to make the strongest impression. Now open year-round, it is no longer just a summer or autumn escape, but a reason to discover this remarkable corner of South Tyrol in every season.
To find out more about ADLER Ritten and book, visit the links below:
ADLER Ritten
Stella, 20
39054 Soprabolzano
BZ, Italy
Web: adler-resorts.com
Tel: +39 0471 155 1700
Email: info@adler-ritten.com
Instagram: @adlersparesorts
Facebook: @adlersparesorts
Hero image © Patrick Stricker, all other images © Alex Filz