By day, Fleet Street is the quintessential metropolitan corridor, but as the sun sets, the daytime churn of the city drains away, and what’s left is sleek and still, with cool stone, glistening glass, and echoes of history lining every curb. Behind these stoic façades, tucked neatly inside a Grade II-listed Lutyens building originally designed for the Press Association, is CORD. Backed by the renowned Le Cordon Bleu, this restaurant wears its credentials lightly: a calm room dressed in soothing blues and whites overlooks a gleaming, glass-fronted kitchen abuzz with chefs at work.
The open view into the kitchen couldn’t be more fitting—CORD’s identity is rooted in observing, learning, and perfecting a craft. As a result, you can feel the classic Le Cordon Bleu influence without it being overworked—think perfectly reduced sauces that glint under the light, golden pastry that’s crisp from the first to last layer, and fish cooked gently until its succulently translucent. The restaurant describes itself as part of an all-in-one concept—fine dining, café, cookery school, and event space—but the dinner experience is focused and elegantly restaurant-like, rather than a “culinary institute with tablecloths”.
Led by Executive Chef Karl O’Dell—appointed in 2023 and presented by the restaurant as the guiding hand behind the seasonally shifting menus—CORD’s messaging is consistent: refined technique, tight execution, and confident flavours, delivered with modern presentation. The tasting menu (£125) starts in a playful register with canapés that look like small design objects but eat like snacks you’d happily have a dozen of: a silky beef tartare, fresh salmon and coconut tartlet, and crispy black truffle arancini make for a palate-teasing warm-up.
The first course, a wild mushroom parfait paired with plum, almonds and balsamic, arrives as a trompe-l’oeil masterpiece: a convincing “mushroom” standing upright on a pale stem, glossy cap and all, ringed with fine crumbs and surrounded by fruit and leaves. It delivers on all fronts, from the looks to the taste: the deep earthiness of the mushroom is softened by the sweet fruit and tangy balsamic. It tastes like autumn, but with its collar buttoned.
Next comes the most luxurious course on this menu: otoro bluefin tuna set against beef consommé, tamarind, and (optionally) Oscietra caviar. A classic “surf and turf” combination that works because it’s built on contrast: fatty tuna melting against an umami-rich consommé while tamarind threads in a sweet-sour line, complemented by caviar adding salinity and texture. It’s also emblematic of CORD’s approach: classic French structure used as a frame for something more globally fluent. Cornish halibut follows with fennel, parsley, and Noilly Prat—another nod to classicism. The fish is handled with a steady hand; the fennel brings an aromatic sweetness; herbal notes keep things bright; and the Noilly Prat adds a faint and very welcome grown-up bitterness.
And then the dish that, for many, will be the headline: Highland venison en croûte with butternut squash, polenta, apricot, and sage. En croûte is a technical choice, one that demands precise control of timing, temperature and texture—for a perfectly flaky exterior and tender interior—while keeping the flavours coherent. The CORD kitchen achieves this beautifully, with the accompaniments further enhancing the plate: earthy squash, fruity apricot, and savoury sage give the venison a sensible, satisfying lift. The presentation again catches the eye with its woodland tableau—a moss- and pine-enrobed plate that adds a sprinkle of theatricality.
Desserts lighten the tone without turning the meal into a sugar parade. A pre-dessert of lychee, hibiscus, and Thai basil acts like a palate reset—floral, cooling, and gently perfumed—before the tropical-forward mango and passionfruit finale arrives with yoghurt, lemongrass, and ginger. Petit fours (including a freshly baked Madeleine) finish things neatly—small, well-made, and sensibly portioned.
For oenophiles, wine here can be part of the fun rather than a formality. Over the evening, bottles leaned in interesting directions: a bright Chenin Blanc from South Africa with enough bite to play nicely with seafood; a salty Manzanilla that made savoury notes pop; a robust Ridge Three Valleys red when the menu turned darker; and a golden Jurançon that felt made for the fruit-led close.
Backed by a strong culinary heritage, CORD honours its legacy, delivering cooking that respects classical foundations while doing exactly what food should: bring joy. If you’re the kind of diner who still gets excited by a properly executed sauce—or by venison wrapped in pastry, done without fault—CORD is an easy recommendation. And with its January offer of three courses with a complementary glass of sparkling for £45, there’s no better time to visit.
To find out more about CORD Restaurant — by Le Cordon Bleu and book, visit the links below:
CORD Restaurant — by Le Cordon Bleu
85 Fleet Street
London EC4Y 1AE
United Kingdom
Web: cordrestaurant.co.uk
Tel: 020 3143 6365
Email: info@cordrestaurant.co.uk
Instagram: @cordrestaurant
Photos © Steven Joyce