At a recent appearance in Birmingham, while visiting his restaurant Marco Pierre White at The Cube, well decorated chef Marco Pierre White shared his views on Michelin stars: “I was never happy cooking three-star food because you’re so expensive you don’t have true regulars… I’m not excited by the fluff of life. I like simplicity. I like ordinary.”
Chef Marco was awarded his first Michelin star in 1987 at the age of just 26. However, right in line with his famously maverick manner, Marco returned them in 1999, when he retired.
Marco also commented saying: “Michelin-star restaurants are not what people want.”
Not the first chef to question the importance of awards, Claude Bosi and Simon Rogan have also shared their thoughts with FOUR –
Claude Bosi
While Claude Bosi remembers the moment he was awarded his first Michelin star as a happy one, he can’t deny the huge amount of pressure he felt as a chef when he received his second: “After my first Michelin star, there was no pressure because I really didn’t expect it. Then, when we [Claude and his former wife] opened Hibiscus the following year and we got our first star soon after it opened and I still didn’t feel the pressure, I was just enjoying it. We got a second star very quickly after the first – at that point I started to feel a lot of pressure.”
And it’s not just the chefs who feel the pinch when their restaurant receives an accolade, commenting on the monetary effect that awards, such as Michelin stars, have on restaurants, Simon Rogan brings diners into the picture, too:
“Because of the accolades that came last year, since getting the second Michelin star, things have changed a little bit for me. I want to get a third star at L’enclume and I have no intention of taking my foot off the pedal.”
“When we got the second Michelin star, business just went through the roof.”
When restaurant’s are awarded Michelin star status, it instantly makes it harder to get into and often, pricier, too, as Simon Rogan points out.
Marco’s recent comment brings to light an interesting focus on the future of food and how chefs and diners feel about awards.
We’d be interested to hear your thoughts!
How do you really feel about awards and do you see them disappearing in the next few years?
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